bloomers

This is my new crusade. For years, like most other people I always assumed that Amelia Bloomer invented this chic outfit. A few years ago I happened to read the sign in Peterboro, New York (only 3 miles from my home). Which states:
Elizabeth Smith Miller introduced the bloomer costume. Bloomerism became the most important dress reform of the 19th century. Who was this Miller woman? I had never heard of her. Well that started it. I also decided to take my son to the Civil War Days they hold in June. As always I needed to decide on a costume. When I contacted the director of the event. she thought a Bloomer in the camp sounded great. I also was asked to give a storytelling speech. I had to do a lot of research and the amount I learned about early feminism was very interesting indeed. Please check out the history of the bloomer. Anyone interested in womens rights or costume can find something to get them sparked.

The costume that I made is more reminisent of Amelia Bloomer. The hat is just like a photo that I saw of her.

Bloomers or the Reform Dress only lasted a few short years starting in 1851. The more prominent figures of the womens rights movement put the long skirts back on so the press would concentrate on the goals of the movement instead of the legs of the speakers. Libby (ESMiller) wore her short dress for approximatly 7 years. A few dress reformers stayed in trousers and coninued the fight for physical health. Dr Mary Walker wore trouswer for the rest of her life and fought fervently for dress reform.

This is the newest bloomer outfit. I tried to make what ESMiller would have worn herself. From looking at the photos of her and talking to the experts on the Smith-Miller families, I think I came up with something very similar to the original outfit that was made in Peterboro NY.

The outfit is black silk satin. Seperate bodice with pointed waist, watch pocket and pieced sleeves with cuff design I took from an original pantellete outfit belonging to the Oneida Community Mansion. The under blouse is white cotton in the girabaldi style. Turkish trousers. There is some debate still on the original fabric. It may have been cotton broadcloth. ESMiller's father was nororious for his dislike of extravagance but on the other hand ESMiller herself was drawn to the trendy styles and fabrics. She even states herself that she turned away from the bloomers because of her love of beauty. Although she never corseted or wore a bustle.

Here is the house ESMiller lived in during the years she first donned the bloomers. It is directly across the green from the site of the Smith Mansion. The house, by the way was deeded to ESMiller's son in 1850 by Gerrit Smith. He was only 4 years old! The tailor of Peterboro lived at the other end of the green and supposedly helped ESMiller design the first outfit. There is rumor that the tailor's sons went on to help establish Marshall Field Department store.

Some other interesting history is just down the road from Peterboro near Oneida, New York.
The Oneida Communitny founded by John Humprey Noyes has a great tour of the Mansion and some original pantellete costumes.

I had the pleasure of this commission from the Oneida Community Mansion House in Kenwood, NY. I have done a bit of research on the costume worn at the Mansion. It is very different from the Bloomers of the Womens Rights Movement. this particular outfit had little to do with dress reform and women's lib but showed a respect and commitment to the way of life John Humphry Noise proposed. The women also cut their hair as a way to show theyhad given up the outside vanities of the world.

Here is the major difference. As you can see only the lower half of the leg is made from the fashion fabric. The "pantelettes" as they were named, buttoned to the underdrawers. This community had a daily newsletter that outlined extensively most of community life. There is even a pattern of sorts, to make the pantelettes and a description for what they called "perpendiculiar garters"as aposed to the "horizontal" ones.

Here is the newest Bloomer. Designed after a combination of a picture of Dr. Mary Walker and one of Lydia Strowbridge. Linen underdress and 100% slave free cotton jacket! I also found a stash of my great, great Grandmother's needlework. I used a collar she made over 100 years ago. My husband and I attended the opening of the M'Clintock house in Waterloo, NY. It is the newest part of the National Womens Rights Park in Seneca Falls, NY

I bet this is a first!

I made this bloomer ballgown from a 1940's wedding gown. A friend of mine gave me this wonderful white velvet dress that was about a size 4. The bodice and overskirt is the velvet and the trowers and underskirt is a silk satin. The lace trim also came from the wedding gown.

In Elizabeth Cady Stanton's book 80 Years and More, Lizzy told of a letter she wrote to Libby (ESMiller). She wrote her cousin to tell of the new white ball gown she had made in the bloomer style. There is also accounts of "Bloomer Balls" held in America as well as England.

This has a lower pointed waist a'la 1850's style. The neck line is also a bit higher than that of the current fashion.

Theses are a few of the "Bloomer Costumes" I have made. There is a rich history in the simple pant outfit for women. I share it with you to dispel a few of the myths of the reform dress generation. If you would like your own reform costume please contact us.